It depends. The interest portion is very high in the beginning of the mortgage and very low at the end.
In a typical 30yr mortgage, you will make 360 monthly (roughly equal) payments. If your mortgage payment is $1000/mo, payment #1 will be approximately $950 interest and $50 principal. Payment #360 will be ~ $50 interest and $950 principal.
Most people move every five or six years (historical, might not be true with current RE market), so they complete about 20% of their total mortgage schedule. However, because of this ramped apportionment, most people still owe the lender much more than 80% of their initial purchase price.
The first time I did the math on this, I thought I had discovered a huge consumer-hostile scam. But actually it's quite reasonable -- mortgages are designed to keep payments equal over the term of the loan, so there's really no other way to do it.
I just bought a home and 40% of my payments are principal from day 1. That's at 3.5% interest. If you get a conventional loan instead of a jumbo, you can do even better than that. Mortgage interest deductions make the calculus even better. Plus tax-free capital gains.
It was quite the slam-dunk easy decision to make where I live (San Francisco), considering how hot the rental market is. My house rents for $1k more than the monthly mortgage!
Interesting. If I understand the math correctly, that means that you have an effectively variable interest rate over the life of the loan (though presumably it will average out to the 3.5%). Is there a special name for that kind of loan?
The reason mortgages front load the interest is not to victimize borrowers (that's just a pleasant side effect) but because in the early days of the loan, you are using more of the lender's money. You pay it back slowly, but you pay interest in each payment on the amount that you're using at that point in the term.
So payment #1, you pay interest on ~100% of the loan. Plus a little extra to reduce your principal. Next payment is interest on ~99.8% (100% minus 1/360th), plus a little extra (more than last time) for principal reduction so that the payments total the same amount. On and on til payment #360.
If you're paying 40% principal on payment #1, by my math, either your effective interest rate is variable over the term, or you're choosing to overpay the invoice (applying the excess to principal -- which makes a huge difference in the early years).
I'm surprised the economics of buying work out so well in SF these days. When I left, it was the other way around. Interest rates help a lot. Congrats on the house!
It's not variable, it's fixed at 3.5% for 30 years. A "jumbo" loan has a higher interest rate than a conventional simply because of its high initial principal, making it a riskier proposition for the bank. What calculator are you using to calculate principal vs interest for a fixed rate loan? Remember, the lower the fixed interest rate, the higher % of principal you are paying at day 0.
The economics of buying vs renting has changed a great deal since I moved here. 5 years ago, buying was rather questionable. I took advantage of "cheap" rents to save up for buying a house when it finally became a buyer's market. Now rents have nearly doubled, but housing prices haven't gone up proportionately.
In a typical 30yr mortgage, you will make 360 monthly (roughly equal) payments. If your mortgage payment is $1000/mo, payment #1 will be approximately $950 interest and $50 principal. Payment #360 will be ~ $50 interest and $950 principal.
Most people move every five or six years (historical, might not be true with current RE market), so they complete about 20% of their total mortgage schedule. However, because of this ramped apportionment, most people still owe the lender much more than 80% of their initial purchase price.
The first time I did the math on this, I thought I had discovered a huge consumer-hostile scam. But actually it's quite reasonable -- mortgages are designed to keep payments equal over the term of the loan, so there's really no other way to do it.